Sunday October 25, Zao Onsen, Okama and back to Tokyo

 

So up to Sunday I hadn’t spent much time in Zao Onsen. Most of my time was eating and sleeping. Our overpriced and slightly sad hotel included breakfast and dinner. Considering the lavish meals the hotel ceased to be so over priced even if it was a bit worn at the edges. We should have taken pictures of dinner. Both nights they consisted of a variety of cold delights in a box and a big platter or raw meat and vegetables to be cooked over a boiling pot – I think it was what is know as Shabu Shabu. Generally, J and I eat very modestly, so this was fancy for our Japan experience. Breakfast too was a buffet of strange things. Miso soup, salad, assorted cold fish and egg cakes and pickles and one or two western things like spaghetti and little sausages. The best thing were these little croquettes filled with creamed potatoes in a light panko crust.

The restaurant where they served us our meals.

View of the hotel from the street. A convenience store was infront. Our room was the second one from the left. A view of the town in Autumn splendor

  Sulfurous streams ran through town.

 

One of the ideas of staying in Zao Onsen was to visit Okama the crater lake formed by what I thought was an extinct volcano. However, J informed me that according to Wikipedia, Zao is one of the most active volcanic areas in Japan. In my Hiking Japan book they started the hike in town and up the ski slopes. Since we were short of time and energy we took the ropeway up to the top. This cost a whopping $25 round trip and that included two different gondolas. You take one to a mid-point and then change to another one. I think the one rose 1600 feet and the second probably close to the same. It was really incredible because down below it was cloudy and as we rose on the second car we found ourselves rising above the cloud line into the sunshine. You can imagine it in winter as an active ski area, but it was beautiful with the autumn leaves.

View out the window.

Exiting the car.

At the top is a ridge of mountains. The first thing you see is a Jizo. I am not really sure the significance, but this one was very large – probably 12 feet tall and commanded an excellent view. We started hiking up the path to the right.

Hard to believe we could continue up, it felt that we were on top of the world. The path continued up to the top of Mt. Kumano. Someone took great care laying a stone path up the mountain. The time and labor must have been incredible.

As we rose the landscape became more barren. I thought to get to the crater lake it would be just along the ridge, in fact it was a hike up to peaks and around a bend. I think these poles are for winter hikers to be able to identify the path when snow is a couple feet high.

Not only were the views incredible it was an eerie feeling being above the cloud line.

We are almost to the crater of Okama looking back from where we came.

When we first go to this point the entire area was covered in clouds. A nice Japanese fellow explained that it may clear and that the crater was below. We waited about ten minutes or so and sure enough it cleared. By the time we left about 20 minutes later it had clouded over.

Here is J and I (picture taken by an Aussie we bumped into. As you can see behind us the crater is covered in clouds that moved in.

For comparison see how clearly you can see the greenish volcanic waters.

Part of the path was wooden planks – mostly through parts that actually had vegetation (low growing bamboos, holly, and some evergreens). We reluctantly left this surreal world above the clouds to catch the train back to Tokyo. Luckily there was an express bus to Yamagata Station and we were able to catch the 3:06 Shinkasen. Usually we reserve seats but the next three trains were booked for reserved cars so we jumped on an unreserved car and I suppose because Yamagata is the start of the line got good seats on a very new train with AC power outlets and comfortable seats. It was one of the few trains that didn’t feel over heated.

 

I tried to take some picture of the landscape on the way back from the train window.

Now we are back in Tokyo at the NIshi Shinjuku hotel – I think this is the fourth time we have stayed here. The room is small but comfy and there is a nice coin laudry near by – I already did some laundry and got dinner – it has been a busy day!